Tourism is a huge part of the local economy and the reasons to make the journey to West Maui post-wildfires still ring true.
By Adam Schupak
Photos by Patrick Koenig
Weatherman Guy Hagi, the TV anchor for Hawaii News Now, trots out a longstanding line when he bumps into tourists – he apologizes for being off by one degree in his latest forecast.
“We’ve got the best weather on the planet,” he boasts. “We never get below 70 degrees and we never hit 90. We’re right in the sweet spot of the club, where you want to hit the golf ball.”
My affection for the island known for its sparkling coastline, fertile green interior and high-end resorts goes deeper than my love of warm temperatures, awe-inspiring views of whales breaching, eclectic cuisine and the Hawaiian culture. I’ve fallen hard for this island’s Aloha spirit during past trips and that’s why the wildfires in August of 2023 were so tragic.
Ninety-eight people died from the fire that raged through the historic town of Lahaina, destroying or damaging more than 2,200 structures. Though 98% of the island carries no visible signs of the fire, most of Front Street, Lahaina’s commercial backbone, is no more and the city’s iconic banyan tree, damaged but recuperating, remains off-limits. Much of Lahaina remains behind roadblocks as crews work on the transition from cleanup to reconstruction. Sadly, little remains to remind a visitor that this was the capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom in the early 19th century under King Kamehameha II.
The island is still healing and there’s much work still to be done but it’s important to know that West Maui is open for business and continues to greet visitors with warm smiles, alohas and fresh flower leis.
PLAY
Golf on Maui is all about the dramatic landscape, dynamic ocean and the difficult wind.
Royal Ka’anapali takes you oceanside, then brings you into the West Maui Mountain foothills, where the views are equally spectacular. The Robert Trent Jones Sr. design opened in 1962 with Bing Crosby playing in the inaugural foursome. Short by today’s standards, it has an abundance of wide bunkers, and the large, fearsome greens built into the contours of the land along with tricky trade winds, which tend to kick up in the afternoon, have ensured it stands the test of time. On my most recent trip, I played the sister Kai Course, and it was an enjoyable experience for the whole family.
Locals call Kapalua Resort’s Plantation Course the Planet, and it is an otherworldly experience. Architects Ben Crenshaw and Bill Coore found the par-5 18th, a hole that nature herself modeled, and built the rest of the course, which careens up and down huge slopes and alongside deep gorges, around it.
From the 18th tee, the view is everything that is Hawaiian. The infinite Pacific roils in the distance. The landscape tumbles down the volcanic shoulders of the mountains. The Cook pines sway to the rhythm of the tradewinds. The sun dances through the racing clouds. It’s one of the best views in golf – its fairway and green tumbling steeply down to Kapalua Bay and beyond to the Pailolo Channel and the island of Molokai.
It’s tough being the sister course to one of the most scenic golf layouts in the world but the Bay Course delivers a solid 1-2 punch. Arnold Palmer partnered with Francis Duane to design Kapalua’s first course in 1975, which is more forgiving than the Plantation. The Bay takes golfers right to the Pacific's edge. The par 3 17th hole plays over a chasm with the water boiling up on the rocks below. David McLay Kidd has been hired to give the course a facelift that is intended to make it as beloved as Plantation. “There’s so much potential at the Bay Course. We are going to open it up and unlock it,” said Alex Nakajima, general manager at Kapalua Golf and Tennis. “When it’s done, we’re going to have two great courses.”
STAY
The sacred lands of Ka’anapali were once called home to the Royal Chiefs of Maui. The Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa was built on the West Maui Mountains at the westernmost point of the island along nearly three miles of sun-kissed beach. Prepare to be greeted with leis of purple vandal orchids around your necks. You also may squeal with delight like my three-year-old daughter at the sight of the exotic parrots and South African penguins in the palatial open-air lobby. It’s a great family-friendly setup with swimming pools galore and endless activities.
Just north of Kaanapali is Kapalua Resort. Kapalua – the name means "arms embracing the sea" – has as its emblem a monarch butterfly with a pineapple in the center, symbolizing the metamorphosis from workaday pineapple plantation to elegant pleasure garden. The Ritz-Carlton is perched on a knoll above D.T. Fleming Beach. The lobby opens to an expansive lanai with sweeping views of a three-tier pool and Honokahua Bay. A $100-million renovation was completed in late 2022. From the nightly live music in the lobby to exquisite food and a world-class spa, this is as close as it gets to paradise.
EAT
Ka’anapali’s 19th hole is the internationally renowned Roy’s, a Maui fixture for 30 years featuring celebrated chef Roy Yamaguchi. Chow down on a Hawaiian specialty, Loco Moco, a heaping plate of sunny-side-up eggs served over a hamburger patty and rice, all doused in brown gravy. It’s also well worth a return trip for dinner.
Merriman’s, the waterfront restaurant on the point of Kapalua Bay, features a lanai with Molokai island off in the distance and makes for one of my favorite settings to eat. Somehow, the food is better than the view, showcasing local ingredients, whether it's chevre from upcountry goats or line-caught fish from nearby waters.
Mala Ocean Tavern is like being on the ocean without leaving land. At this casual restaurant in Lahaina, perhaps the most elegant restaurant you’ll find with a tin roof and walls, you're practically sitting on the water, enjoying your meal while dolphins frolic in the ocean and turtles nibble at the shore. Ask for a table outdoors.
There are several delicious restaurants at the Hyatt Regency – Japengo, which hangs over the pool, wins for sushi and setting while the sprawling poolside restaurant, Umalu, satisfied our lunchtime cravings.
The Banyan Tree at the Ritz-Carlton features a menu rooting in Hawaiian coastal cuisine and an indoor garden setting. Order the seafood tower, a great way to taste the freshness the ocean has to offer.
DO
Attending a lūʻau is part meal, part show and all fun. Drums of the Pacific, the on-site luau at the Hyatt Regency, is a tasty way to experience a time-honored island tradition. The performers tell the story of Polynesian culture and history through music, song and dance. Samoan slap dances, Tahitian drum dances and the closing fire-knife dance are all presented in an informative and spell-binding narrative at an amphitheater beneath the stars.
Tales of the Kapa Moe Lūʻau at the Aloha Garden Pavilion is the Ritz-Carlton’s version and another magnificent spread of food while including a bit of Cirque de Soleil style acrobatics to the show. One of the highlights of any family trip here has been seeing my daughter’s delight at watching the hula and the fire dance.
Our family also enjoyed the short walk to Whalers Village, a posh shopping center with more than 50 stores and restaurants, and something for everybody.
Sitting on Ka’anapali Beach, it can feel like you were plucked from everyday life and dropped into a postcard showing off the sunny skies, cerulean waters and golden sands of Maui. Steps into the ocean and you’re snorkeling with scores of colorful fish. Make time to stop by Black Rock, a sheltered cove that’s popular for snorkeling amid green sea turtles, manta rays and monk seals. By day, tourists do backflips from the rock’s summit and there’s a cliff-lighting ceremony at sunset on a nightly basis.
High marks for the two-hour morning whale-watching trip my family took with Trilogy Sail. Hot cinnamon rolls and Bloody Mary’s included! From December-March, North Pacific humpback whales make their annual migration from the cold waters of Alaska. “It’s a giant nursery out here,” said the captain. “We’ve got the highest population of whales at one time. During February and March, you can’t throw a rock without hitting a whale.”
And worth the drive to the south end of Maui is Haleakala Highway, also known as Crater Road, the 37-mile curvy two-lane road that leads to the summit of Haleakala, the House of the Sun. The world's largest dormant volcano presents a kaleidoscope of clouds and colors that is stunning. At 10,023 feet, the air is thin so dress warmly – it gets surprisingly cold and windy up there.
Last but definitely not least – it was voted one of the most beautiful drives in the country – is the Road to Hana. Set aside at least four hours for each leg of the 55-mile rugged and winding trip along the north coast from Kahului at the island’s center to the eastern outpost at Hana.