This article originally appeared in the October issue of NCGA Golf Magazine
By Ted Johnson
Going back to its Mexican land grant days when the land was covered with wheat and cattle, the city of Livermore in eastern Alameda County has a deep agriculture history. Then just over 70 years ago the Lawrence Livermore Laboratory was established. “The Lab” is a research and development institution for science and technology applied to national security, principally the nation’s nuclear weapons.
Then it wasn’t uncommon in a Livermore restaurant to have a rancher on one table talking about feed prices and an astrophysicist one table over pondering depletion rates of uranium. There are still plenty of astrophysicists and materials scientists in Livermore today, but now the rancher most likely has been replaced by a winemaker talking about clones. Wine clones.
The Livermore Valley has evolved into a charming region resplendent in wine and golf. There are more than 50 wineries with three high-quality public golf courses in close proximity, making the Liv Valley a premier place to play and sip.
What makes it so? Livermore Valley shares much with Napa, Sonoma and other regions. But first there was some foresight: Wente’s grandfather along with business partner Chares Wetmore about 70 years ago worked together to have the city and county zone the hillsides south of Livermore for agriculture and recreation in order to avoid the rapid suburbanization taking place in nearby cities.
“There was a lot of ground work ahead of time to keep the hillsides open,” said Phil Wente, the fourth generation Wente to run the long-time family operation. As for the wine? “The climate and the soil complexes – they’re identical to Napa, Sonoma, and all over. Yes, some spots are slightly warmer, some slightly cooler – again, just like Napa. The Livermore region has the ability to do the same grape varieties as Napa.”
And proximity helps, as does the lack of weekend Napa Valley wine traffic. “We’re 40 miles from everywhere in the Bay Area,” Wente pointed out, “and that makes it appealing to everyone.”
That makes the Livermore Valley the best blend – that’s a wine pun – of golf and wine. To do both, the decision comes down to three options: play and taste there (Wente), play and drive to a close tasting room (Poppy Ridge GC), or play and drive a little farther to nearby Pleasanton (Callippe Preserve).
Wente is the epicenter of the Livermore Valley golf/wine experience. The operation started in the 1880s when Phil’s great-great-grandfather planted the first chardonnay vines. Now 75 percent of that varietal in the U.S. comes off the “Wente clone.”
The property features vineyards, a large tasting room, a first-rate restaurant, a venue for outdoor concerts, and a golf course known equally for its beauty and challenging features. Greg Norman’s first design in the continental U.S opened in 1998. It meanders from low valleys dominated by sycamores to oak tree-laden hillsides to vineyards lining the fairways.
The restaurant and tasting room are attractions enough but note that Wente is one of the few courses where some tee times in the hot summer afternoons are more popular because they make it easier to come off the course and retire to a table near the stage for an early evening concert.
Ten miles away is Poppy Ridge, the second NCGA membership course. The original 27-hole layout recently underwent a stunning remodeling by Jay Blasi and now is 18 holes with a “small course” known as the Ridge 9. Locals note the vineyard on the east side of the property are petite syrah grapes planted by Wente for John Madden, the famous former Oakland Raiders coach.
Blasi’s design features wide fairways and plenty marked by strategic bunkers, but his focus originated in making the course as playable as possible for all while also challenging the accomplished player. Factor in a common afternoon breeze, and the course offers plenty of tests.
The area surrounding Poppy Ridge has numerous wineries, but within two miles you can find the 3 Steves, McGrail and Darcie Kent wineries – each offering first-rate wines in admirable settings. McGrail offers an expansive view of the Livermore Valley with Mt. Diablo looking to the northwest. It’s possible to drive east or west on Tesla Road and find any number of option for chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, and sauvignon blanc tastings. Want a more Spanish style? There’s Murrieta's Well off Mines Road that will satisfy that palette.
Callippe Preserve opened in 2005 and is the shortest of the three courses, but don’t be fooled. Large greens with deceptive slopes, a back nine marked by elevation changes and plenty of hazards, Callippe offers plenty of challenges even though seven of the 10 par-4s measure less than 380 yards from the black tees.
Callippe refers to a butterfly found on the property, hence the “Preserve” in the title. Locals joke that it’s a French term for “four-putt.” Such a frustration can be alleviated with a post-round glass of wine, of course. Enjoy.